Day 32, Portomarin to Palas de Rei
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| Starting out at Portomarin. Note the fetching hanky round the neck - I know it looks twee, but it stops me getting a sunburnt neck. The photo was taken by a couple from Catalonia who I met when walking out of Leon. We have never had a conversation, but we see each other often and take photos for each other. Today they walked by as I was photographing the bridge, just a few steps out of my hotel and demanded my camera so I'd have a shot for the day. |
Funny old day today. I was ready early for the 7am breakfast and managed to get it early (isn't always the case), so I was on the road by 7.08am. My hotel was just to the left of me in the above photo and I'd been watching what seemed like hundreds of pilgrims walking across the bridge when I first looked out there at 6.30am - most of them noisy teenagers in large groups.
But to go back to last night - a few reflections. The restaurant was very hospitable and after we'd eaten - I think Monique had left, so it was just 75-year-old Irish George and his daughter Kathy and I - the waiter dragged out a bottle of a liquor and gave us a free glass.
On the way back to the hotel I passed a robotic lawnmower - most un-European to mow the lawns, but I thought Oliver would like it.
Back at the hotel, the Aussies were in full swing. They're only doing the last 100k because they could fit it in on their way to the netball world cup. You can tell from the nails that they're in full spectator mode.
Right - back to today. It was an extremely cool misty morning. There was a lot of climbing involved, so it was as well it wasn't hot - in fact I kept my hoodie on until about 11am.
I had an early stop at about 8km for a coffee and toilet. The cabelleros was occupied, so I slipped into the senoras (which had no toilet paper). When I came out, three women were queued up, which was slightly embarrassing.
After that, I set a cracking pace. It was partly the temperature, but irritation played a large part.
Groups of teenagers - usually between a dozen and 20 - wandered along, taking up the entire width of the trail. They were busy noisily showing off to each other and often had loud music playing. I usually had to put on a spurt to get past them - almost elbowing my way through, as they are completely oblivious to all the other people on the trail.
I passed the 17km mark after four hours - even including the stop - which is very good going, but at 20km decided I'd done enough for the day so stopped at a very hospitable cafe, where the proprietor insisted on carrying my coffee and extremely delicious tortilla out to a table for me.
I slowed down after that and plugged in an audio book and it wasn't too far along before I was on the scenic descent into Palas de Rei. Being Sunday, there was a lot of church activity going on (and following that a lot of activities in bars)..
My hotel gets the prize for the most hospitable. As soon as I went into the foyer, the man behind the desk said "you must be Peter, welcome". He deluged me with information about the town, gave me a map with recommended bars and restaurants, pharmacies and supermarkets, then personally conducted me to the lift, took me to my room (where my suitcase was waiting) and explained how everything worked.
Once I'd settled in, done my washing, had a shower etc, I wandered into town. It's very small, so it didn't take long. I bought some beer at the supermarket - same variety as in the mini-bar but at half the price. I found Andy and Toni from Tauranga, settled behind large beers. I bought a small one and joined them, then came back to my room, where I swapped my warm beer for the cold ones in the mini-bar and proceeded on my creative endeavours.
Went out to the recommended restaurant, but although the food was good I didn't see soul I knew. Back early - 30km walk tomorrow.
The photos pretty well cover the course of the day. Here they are: https://photos.app.goo.gl/WfYiDG1GdFMP2ZXj7
Here's the day's progress from my watch:
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