Day 27, Villafranca to Ambasmestas

Dawn on the Camino.

July 2

Just completed day 27, so just eight walking days left (and no rest days).

Going back to last night – I’d booked in for dinner at the hotel I was staying at. It had a very good reputation, with a proper chef, so I thought it was a good chance to have a meal that was a step up from the normal pilgrim meal in the town square. I went into the square and sat around having a glass of wine – didn’t want too much beer occupying my stomach – then went back to the hotel promptly to be ready at 7pm.

It wasn’t to be. The chef’s car had broken down was the story, although I suspect I was the only person booked in and they decided it wasn’t worth it. So off I went back to Plaza Mayor and had a really good pilgrim meal. I had a very hearty Galician soup, followed by a pig’s knuckle with lashings of chips (which seem to go with everything). I refrained from the normal ice cream or similar and had a coffee – in addition to a half bottle of wine and was tucked up in bed well before 10pm.

When I got back to my room I found a tray with breakfast (a thermos of coffee, dry toast, butter and lump of cake) as well as a packed lunch.

Today’s walk was short, but involved a big hill. Fresh from my rest day, I decided to make an early start, so I packed and locked my suitcase, leaving out just the clothes for the walk and my spare toothbrush.

I was able to hit the road before 6.30am. walking through the dark town and hitting the foot of the climb after 1km. 

The track reared up incredibly steeply. I was glad of the early morning coolness – after 1km I’d climbed 180m. Cyclists will recognise that as an average 18% climb – but the bulk of it was over the first 500m.

By 7.30am I’d walked 3.5km and caught a glimpse of the sunrise as I crossed the saddle, before plunging back into the shade. I stopped at 8am for my sandwich and juice after covering 6km – I’d just reached the sunshine and was above the clouds. 

Far down below I could see walkers taking the easy route and even hear the voices of the large school party I keep coming across.

The Camino Frances is not just a single route. Although the main thrust of it is west, there are often options. Leaving Villafranca, the main option was along the valley floor, following the highway. I chose the second option, which had the climb of about 400m (and then a descent of about the same). 

There was a third, wilderness option, but that was unbroken for 26km, with no villages, and would have taken me far beyond today’s destination.

Up until now, I’ve followed the John Brierley book, which most pilgrims carry and which gives all the permutations. It takes concentration to follow and sometimes you overshoot a junction before you know you are close to it, or just can’t be bothered to keep getting it out.

At my last stop I downloaded a Camino Frances app on to my phone. You can use it offline – the phone’s gps keeps track of where you are and you can see on the app whether you’re on the trail – and which trail. You can see in the photo the red dotted trail for the valley route, the green dotted trail for the option I was on and the blue dot, indicating me. It'll be especially helpful through cities, when you'll be able to see where the trail is and whether you're on it. I wish I'd had it in some of the cities I've been through.

At about 10km I came to the little village of Pradela and stopped for a coffee. It was quite entertaining. I met the Tauranga couple Karl and Anneke, who I’d come across yesterday. 

Also an Irish man called Andrew, a small puppy and a pair of angry cats, who snarled at each other in a very noisy way.

I descended the hill with Karl and Anneke until they got away from me when I stopped for photos, but soon after that I arrived at my destination, after 18km in just over five hours. It was an interesting way to do it, having an early start. Things are much cooler and more pleasant, especially for climbing, but when you arrive there’s a lot of day to fill in.

I took a walk around the village and found a tiny store where I bought some very cold beer. 

Came back to the hotel and bought the most huge bocadilla stuffed with calamari, which I ate on my private verandah, did some washing, had a shave and shower and have since been typing away.

I’ve been reflecting on how technology has changed things. 

I use my watch to give me time, distance, altitude, speed etc and when I finish the day I download it to my phone and then on the blog (sometimes). I could do most of that on my phone using Strava (or similar apps), but when I download my watch to my phone it automatically puts it on Strava anyway. People who follow me on Strava can see progress there and comment if they want.

My daily rant goes on to the free Google blog app Blogspot and my many photos go on Google photos. When I share the blog or the pics, people can also comment on those apps and I also get feedback on Messenger, Facebook and WhatsApp.

All in all, it’s a very connected world and I feel huge support from all my friends and family who are reading and commenting. Not only those in New Zealand, but many people I've met along the way (including Martin and Lyn, from the US, who have done two sections and plan to return next year to complete their journey).

People ask questions about how it works and how I manage – why I listen to stories as I walk, why I don’t carry my bag etc. 

One thing I’ve found and discussed with other walkers is that everyone is doing their own Camino. Everyone is finding their own truth, in their own way and at their own pace and while it’s interesting to see the variations, there is no correct way, except your own way.

This is such a small village I’m not sure if there’s anywhere to eat except here and they don’t start dinner until 8pm, which I’m not happy about. Right now I’m stuffed with squid and bread (and beer), so maybe I won’t wait up.

My room is in the south west corner of the hotel. At first I had some shade, but as the day has gone on the sun has swung around so it's blasting through the windows. At first I had the french doors open, but the room filled up with flies. When I shut them, it became unbearably hot, even though I've now closed the shutters. I tried to doze, but was tormented by flies, so I had to have a 30 minute fly safari, armed with a small towel - there are bodies everywhere. It's now after 6pm, but still unbearably hot. I'm going to bring in my washing, prepare for tomorrow and go for a walk - see if I can get a bar snack rather than wait for the late dinner hour.

Tomorrow I walk of Castilla y Leon and into Galicia. From the name you my guess it's a Gaelic country with many links (including language and bagpipes) to Ireland and Scotland.

But that's for another day.
Here's a link to today's photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/z16aGfDH5vQro1Rf8