Peter Camino

Monday June 16 After a long flight, from Zurich to Hong Kong and arriving dazed and confused, here's what happened. First I found an ATM machine. The minimum withdrawal was HK$500, which I baulked at. but figured I could change any excess back to NZ dollars when I got home. At that stage I thought the dollar values were about equal. Next, I walked round and round, looking for the baggage storage. Turned out it was in the railway station, which is so close it's almost a part of the airport. When I saw it was HK$140 a day to store a suitcase, I abandoned that plan. While I had airport wifi, I downloaded a Google map with instructions on getting to my hotel. It involved trains on three separate lines. Fortunately, during my wandering I found an information desk with a metro map - just like the one in London - so I took the precaution of marking my changes and destination on it, in case I lost my Google map, which I did.  I saw ticket machines with vast que...

Goodbye to the square in Santiago Sat July 13  A pretty mixed day. Some frustration at dealing with unfamiliar things, some gratitude for helping hands and a feeling of contentment after a large beer and a huge pizza. Now I’m settling down to a nice glass of red wine (still at the pizza restaurant in Zurich). I slept in until 8am in the Parador in Santiago, had breakfast and embarked on the second half of the cathedral museum - this time an exhibition over several floors of the work of Master Mateo, one of the principal creators of the cathedral about 800 years ago. After that, I made a determined effort to find the mysterious entry to the main cathedral, which is under extensive renovation. Eventually I found it and wandered through the ancient building - a fitting end to my journey, which started in France on June 1. I couldn’t resist buying a few souvenirs too as I wandered back to the Parador - there’s no shortage of shops selling all sorts of mementos. It was brill...

July 11, 12, 13 Journey's end. It's now Saturday morning in Santiago. I arrived here on Wednesday and have since had three nights in the very luxurious Parador.   The building is five centuries old. It was originally built as a hospital for pilgrims, although I believe the word 'hospital' should be taken in the broader meaning of hospitality. The original building was in the shape of a square figure eight, with two major courtyards, but a second section was later added so there are now four courtyards, with guest rooms on the upper floors. My room was at the top, looking over this courtyard. I've been a bit lazy since I arrived, like a football with the air let out. I've drifted around, had drinks and dinners with friends, taken a toy train trip around the city, been to museums and into the cathedral (which is under extensive renovation), had siestas, watched Tour de France highlights and a bit of Wimbledon and rested up. Of course, I picked up my c...

The cathedral at Santiago de Compostela. July 10 It's hard to take in. I've arrived. When I wake up tomorrow I don't have to walk anywhere. Despite my detached consideration of things, I felt more than a little emotional when I arrived in the square in front of the cathedral. Lucky no one was there to see the small tear in my eye, which threatens to return now - three hours later. Or perhaps my eyes were watering when I saw the price of the lone beer in the mini bar - 4.5 euro. I was so overcome that I rushed out to the nearest supermarket and bought three cans of highest quality Estrella Galicia for 68 cents each and stashed them in the fridge of the mini bar for future consumption (although unfortunately only one has survived so far). As I returned from the supermarket, I spotted my Canadian friends Kathy and Monique at a bar. They had started out at 6am, arrived 10.30am and been to a pilgrim mass. Booked into an albergue, but hadn't yet found their way t...

The Kiwi crew - all from Tauranga (except me), from left, Andy, Toni, me, Anneke and Karel. July 9 I'm poised on the brink of finishing this adventure. Tomorrow I walk into Santiago - I should be there before 1pm. There'll be lots of merriment and catching up with friends - both old and new.   Today was a surprisingly scenic day. Despite the fact that we walk close to major roads, they're largely invisible. The trails have been apart from civilisation and quite lovely in places. But first a rewind to last night. For a small town, Arzua was quite spread out. The guide book says there's lots of activity in the main square. It was hard to determine where the main square was, but if it was where I thought, there wasn't a lot going on there early on. Eventually I spotted my friend Monique. She was having a coffee before heading to the church for her pilgrim stamp. Impulsively, I joined her (not that I needed a stamp, I didn't even have my pilgrim passp...

Trails through farms and forests and a cloudy cool day made 30km tick by without too much pain. July 8 Had an extremely quiet night - didn't see a soul I knew. Investigated the fabled octopus. It was very nice, but I know it's cooked in a variety of ways, which I've yet to try. Including tonight, I only have five left in Spain, so must be sure to let no dish remain untasted (although I draw the line at tripe). Breakfast this morning wasn't until 7.30am (same tomorrow). I was there early, downed the requisite corn flakes and was out the door by 7.40am. It was nice and cool and the countryside was pleasant. Had a coffee stop at about 9km and a lunch stop towards noon (where I had a big piece of a thin beef pie), but otherwise soldiered on for about 6hr 40min, clocking an average of 4.4km/h, which is very good going. Once I'd finished communing with nature and the pace slowed - at about 20km - I put on a new audio book. The 100-Year-Old Man who Jumped o...

Starting out at Portomarin. Note the fetching hanky round the neck - I know it looks twee, but it stops me getting a sunburnt neck. The photo was taken by a couple from Catalonia who I met when walking out of Leon. We have never had a conversation, but we see each other often and take photos for each other. Today they walked by as I was photographing the bridge, just a few steps out of my hotel and demanded my camera so I'd have a shot for the day. July 7 Funny old day today. I was ready early for the 7am breakfast and managed to get it early (isn't always the case), so I was on the road by 7.08am. My hotel was just to the left of me in the above photo and I'd been watching what seemed like hundreds of pilgrims walking across the bridge when I first looked out there at 6.30am - most of them noisy teenagers in large groups. But to go back to last night - a few reflections. The restaurant was very hospitable and after we'd eaten - I think Monique had left, so it wa...

Scenic day on the trail. June 7 Today's been a good one. I slept until the 6.30am alarm went off, which is very unusual. It may have had to do with the air conditioning, so I could drop the temperature to about 17 degrees, but in any case I slept well from before 9pm. The four star hotel in Sarria made me sorry I wasn't young, when it came to breakfast. I just can't manage all that food any more. I did the compulsory (for me) cereal, fruit and yoghurt, as well as fruit juice and a couple of coffees, but struggled with a bit of tortilla. Wishing I could manage more, I wandered off soon after 7.30am. I met up with three Australians - Belinda, Christine and Natalie (I think I've got that right). They were a little lost and confused as their luggage had been lost as they flew in. They'd been looking for somewhere to get new pilgrim passports, as their flight from Australia had been inconveniently disrupted by someone dying en route and then the plane breaking ...