Day 15, Castrojeriz to Fromista

The barren landscape of the Meseta. Many pilgrims choose to bus past this section of the Camino, but I think it's an essential part of the experience - a kind of test, or penance - what doesn't destroy you makes you stronger.

June 18

Today, we walked an ancient pilgrim path across the Meseta – exposed and windswept.

I should mention that last night I walked up to the Castillo at Casatrorejiz. My dear Gubby had mentioned her regret that she never made that climb to the ruined castle, so I did it at 7pm last night - the many photos are in the album from yesterday's blog.

First today, I joined my Australian friends Josie and Frank and Karen at one of the poorest breakfasts yet – just a bit of toast and some cheese. There was some fruit and yoghurt (I had some yoghurt) and the coffee was nice, but not a lot to sustain a hard 25km day.

The breakfast was late too, so it was 8.30 before I set off walking from Castrojeriz and up the long climb of nearly 100m to Alto de Mostelares, reached at 3.5km. You can see the path winding along the hillside in the distance.

Frank and Karen disappear across the Meseta.

Frank and Karen caught me at this point, but they seemed (and were) energised and pressed on. There they are - disappearing down into the Meseta.

I was happily engrossed in my audio book and happy to amble on, knowing they were stopping after about 19km, while I had a much longer day.

I was caught by Alan, a man from Tokoroa who now lived in Sydney. He was on his fifth Camino and out of politeness I took out my ear buds while he told me stories for a few kilometres before moving on with another friend of his, Martin.

I crossed the bridge – Puenta de Itero – at the boundary between the kingdoms of Castilla and Leon.

At 11am, I caught Frank and Karen at the village of Itero de la Vega – I’d covered 11km in about 2hr 30min, so was nearly at my halfway point.

I had a coffee with them, planning to have something more at their destination – Boadilla – at about 19 km.

I reached Boadilla, but found it a fairly bleak village and I didn’t see a bar or café anywhere, so just walked on.

Once the day goes beyond 20km, I start to find the going a bit tough. I’d finished my audio book and wanted to absorb the story before starting on a new one – the wind was draining my energy and it was becoming a bit of a plod.

I reached the Canal de Castilla, which has provided both irrigation for the crops and transport for the supplies and produce since the 18^th century.

I was joined by Vince – a student from North Carolina – who I’d seen every day for a while but never spoken to. Vince had a dodgy knee, but he still made good progress.


 He went on in pursuit of a young girl as we crossed the canal near the entrance to Fromista.

Although I had directions to my hotel, the lack of street names meant I overshot by nearly a kilometre (something I really didn’t need). Eventually I found my hotel and was pleased to run a bath, chuck in several days of washing and climb in on top.

After a soak, I slung my elastic clothesline over the balcony and while I was hanging it out saw my friend Josie wandering in – staying at the same hotel.

Had dinner with Josie. As a blessed relief, they started at 6.30pm, so back in my room after pasta, trout (see photo album) and ice cream, as well as a bottle of wine - all for 12 euro - ready for a good night's sleep, an early breakfast (7am) and a short day tomorrow (19km)

Photo album - not so many today:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3bczMn5ek2ahj8nT6

Here's today's journey on my watch app
https://app.suunto.com/move/petergibbs/5d090e94e883bf5c4372245a